The following is extracted from the journal of my fellow-
traveller, to which, as persons acquainted with my poems will
know, I have been obliged on other occasions:--
'Is there a man,' etc.
"The churchyard is full of grave-stones and expensive monuments,
in all sorts of fantastic shapes, obelisk-wise, pillar-wise, etc.
When our guide had left us we turned again to Burns's grave, and
afterwards went to his house, wishing to inquire after Mrs. Burns,
who was gone to spend some time by the seashore with her children.
We spoke to the maid-servant at the door, who invited us forward,
and we sate down in the parlour. The walls were coloured with a
blue wash; on one side of the fire was a mahogany desk; opposite
the window a clock, which Burns mentions, in one of his letters,
having received as a present. The house was cleanly and neat in
the inside, the stairs of stone scoured white, the kitchen on the
right side of the passage, the parlour on the left. In the room
above the parlour the poet died, and his son, very lately, in the
same room. The servant told us she had lived four years with Mrs.
Burns, who was now in great sorrow for the death of Wallace. She
said that Mrs. B.'s youngest son was now at Christ's Hospital. We
were glad to leave Dumfries, where we could think of little but
poor Burns, and his moving about on that unpoetic ground. In our
road to Brownhill, the next stage, we passed Ellisland, at a
little distance on our right--his farm-house. Our pleasure in
looking round would have been still greater, if the road had led
us nearer the spot.
* * * * *
"I cannot take leave of this country which we passed through to-
day, without mentioning that we saw the Cumberland mountains
within half-a-mile of Ellisland, Burns's house, the last view we
had of them. Drayton has prettily described the connection which
this neighbourhood has with ours, when he makes Skiddaw say,--
'Scruffel, from the sky
That Annandale doth crown, with a most amorous eye
Salutes me every day, or at my pride looks grim,
Oft threatening me with clouds, as I oft threaten him.'
"These lines came to my brother's memory, as well as the
Cumberland saying,--
'If Skiddaw hath a cap
Scruffel wots well of that.'
"We talked of Burns, and of the prospect he must have had,
perhaps from his own door, of Skiddaw and his companions;
indulging ourselves in the fancy that we might have been
personally known to each other, and he have looked upon those
objects with more pleasure for our sakes."