This sonnet describes the 'exterior' of a Highland hut, as often
seen under a morning or evening sunshine. To the authoress of the
"Address to the Wind," and other poems, in this volume, who was my
fellow-traveller in this tour, I am indebted for the following
extract from her journal, which accurately describes, under
particular circumstances, the beautiful appearance of the
'interior' of one of these rude habitations.
"On our return from the Trosachs the evening began to darken,
and it rained so heavily that we were completely wet before we had
come two miles, and it was dark when we landed with our boatman,
at his hut upon the banks of Loch Katrine. I was faint from cold:
the good woman had provided, according to her promise, a better
fire than we had found in the morning; and, indeed, when I sat
down in the chimney-corner of her smoky biggin, I thought I had
never felt more comfortable in my life: a pan of coffee was
boiling for us, and having put our clothes in the way of drying,
we all sat down thankful for a shelter. We could not prevail upon
our boatman, the master of the house, to draw near the fire,
though he was cold and wet, or to suffer his wife to get him dry
clothes till she had served us, which she did most willingly,
though not very expeditiously.
"A Cumberland man of the same rank would not have had such a
notion of what was fit and right in his own house, or, if he had,
one would have accused him of servility; but in the Highlander it
only seemed like politeness (however erroneous and painful to us),
naturally growing out of the dependence of the inferiors of the
clan upon their laird; he did not, however, refuse to let his wife
bring out the whisky bottle for his refreshment, at our request.
"She keeps a dram," as the phrase is: indeed, I believe there is
scarcely a lonely house by the wayside, in Scotland, where
travellers may not be accommodated with a dram. We asked for
sugar, butter, barley-bread, and milk: and, with a smile and a
stare more of kindness than wonder, she replied, "Ye'll get that,"
bringing each article separately. We caroused our cups of coffee,
laughing like children at the strange atmosphere in which we were:
the smoke came in gusts, and spread along the walls; and above our
heads in the chimney (where the hens were roosting) it appeared
like clouds in the sky. We laughed and laughed again, in spite of
the smarting of our eyes, yet had a quieter pleasure in observing
the beauty of the beams and rafters gleaming between the clouds of
smoke: they had been crusted over and varnished by many winters,
till, where the firelight fell upon them, they had become as
glossy as black rocks, on a sunny day, cased in ice. When we had
eaten our supper we sat about half an hour, and I think I never
felt so deeply the blessing of a hospitable welcome and a warm
fire. The man of the house repeated from time to time that we
should often tell of this night when we got to our homes, and
interposed praises of his own lake, which he had more than once,
when we were returning in the boat, ventured to say was 'bonnier
than Loch Lomond.' Our companion from the Trosachs, who, it
appeared, was an Edinburgh drawing-master going, during the
vacation, on a pedestrian tour to John O'Groat's House, was to
sleep in the barn with my fellow-travellers, where the man said he
had plenty of dry hay. I do not believe that the hay of the
Highlands is ever very dry, but this year it had a better chance
than usual: wet or dry, however, the next morning they said they
had slept comfortably. When I went to bed, the mistress, desiring
me to 'go ben,' attended me with a candle, and assured me that the
bed was dry, though not 'sic as I had been used to.' It was of
chaff; there were two others in the room, a cupboard and two
chests, upon one of which stood milk in wooden vessels covered
over. The walls of the house were of stone unplastered; it
consisted of three apartments, the cow-house at one end, the
kitchen or house in the middle, and the spence at the other end;
the rooms were divided, not up to the rigging, but only to the
beginning of the roof, so that there was a free passage for light
and smoke from one end of the house to the other. I went to bed
some time before the rest of the family; the door was shut between
us, and they had a bright fire, which I could not see, but the
light it sent up amongst the varnished rafters and beams, which
crossed each other in almost as intricate and fantastic a manner
as I have seen the underboughs of a large beech-tree withered by
the depth of shade above, produced the most beautiful effect that
can be conceived. It was like what I should suppose an underground
cave or temple to be with a dripping or moist roof, and the
moonlight entering in upon it by some means or other; and yet the
colours were more like those of melted gems. I lay looking up till
the light of the fire faded away, and the man and his wife and
child had crept into their bed at the other end of the room; I did
not sleep much, but passed a comfortable night; for my bed, though
hard, was warm and clean: the unusualness of my situation
prevented me from sleeping. I could hear the waves beat against
the shore of the lake; a little rill close to the door made a much
louder noise, and, when I sat up in my bed, I could see the lake
through an open window-place at the bed's head. Add to this, it
rained all night. I was less occupied by remembrance of the
Trosachs, beautiful as they were, than the vision of the Highland
hut, which I could not get out of my head; I thought of the
Faeryland of Spenser, and what I had read in romance at other
times; and then what a feast it would be for a London Pantomime-
maker could he but transplant it to Drury-lane, with all its
beautiful colours!"--"MS."