An Overview of Surfing: Past to Present Essay

These religious radicals started a domino affect of the Hawaiian religion. The Hawaiians destroyed and burned their feared idols. The people who still held on the old belifes were murdered. This goes to show how a religion can either hold a society together or tear it apart. Henry Obookiah was born in Hawaii. His family was murdered in a war between neighboring islands. He decided to find a new life in America, so he hopped aboard a trading ship and landed in New England. Obookiah stayed with a Christian family and went to a foreign mission school. Obookiah was taught to be a good Christian gentlemen. He told Americans about the religious chaos in Hawaii saying: "Hawaii gods; the wood- they burn. Me go home, put em in a fire, burn ‘em up. They no see, no hear, no anything. We make ‘em. Our god, He make us"(The Hawaiian Islands P. 30). Christian New Englanders were amazed by Obookiah’s enlightenment in America. New England Christians were motivated to spread the faith into Hawaii. The first American settlers were Christian missionaries from New England. The Missionaries came to the Hawaiian shores aboard the Thaddeus on March 31, 1819. The Americans were treated very well by the natives. They were eager to learn from the missionaries. Without the strict supervision of their former gods and superstitions, Hawaiians were celebrating new freedom. They drank, they partied,

Imagine you are at the beach. You are laying down a towel and setting up an umbrella when something catches your eye. Out in the ocean you see a surfer catching some waves, and it looks so fun and exciting that you almost grab a board and join in. However you don’t know how to surf and would rather not embarrass yourself in front of all these beach goers. Surfing, however, isn’t complicated at all and can be accomplished in these simple steps.

Originating in California as a way surfers could be able to surf when the waves were flat. The original creator isn’t known as it seems that everybody seemingly came together with the idea at approximately the same time. The first manufactured skateboards were ordered in a Los Angeles surf shop in California. The shop owner Bill Richard organized with Chicago Roller Skate Company to produce skate wheels to be used with the boards. Towards the later 60’s, there was a trend of shops dedicated to skateboarding or “Street surfing” referred to at the time. The evolution of the board went from a rectangle piece of wood to resembling a surf board. As skateboarding continued to become more popular, the first skateboarding magazine, “The

to spread there faith to the Hawaiians. They didn’t like that so since the 1840s they

Some would say it's like snowboarding, whereas others would say it's like skateboarding. I, on the other hand, believe surfing is unlike any other sport. Besides it being loads of fun and freeing your mind, it is also a great workout. Problem is, though, many people wonder how to get started and learn what to do. That's where I come in.

Being a native to Hawaii was a helpful push towards legendary status for Eddie Aikau. The act of riding waves with a wooden type board originated in Western Polynesia over three thousand years ago (The Origins of Surfing). The first Polynesian settlers to land in Hawaii were said to be skilled in simple surfing, and after a few hundred years of riding waves in Hawaii, the well-known Hawaiian form of the sport emerged (The Origins of Surfing). Eddie Aikau propelled in surfing because of his love for the ocean, his job as a lifeguard, and his first surfing competitions.

As with understanding any culture, true understanding comes from sensitivity, awareness, and lack of superficiality. To mainstream American culture in the 1960s and today, surfer dudes look lazy. They look like they do not have careers or ambitions outside of surfing the perfect wave. To conservative outsiders, surfer dudes can look like they continually evade normative responsibilities in pursuit of great waves around the world. They may even seem reckless because surfing, while exhilarating, is a very dangerous sport. Surfer dudes, particularly big wave surfer dudes put their lives at risk each time they go out for a surf. It may look like they are needlessly putting themselves in harm's way for the sake of a fleeting thrill. These are some facts about surfer dude culture, but these facts do not provide a substantial context within which to fully perceive and understand

Surfing: Cardio, conditioning. Surfing requires constant core balance and upper body strengthening by paddling. It's similar to an interval-type workout because you are paddling for waves, popping up on your feet, and maintaining full body motion with balance. This activity strengthens and requires various muscle groups.

Skateboarding is the act of riding and performing tricks using a skateboard. A person who skateboards is most often referred to as a skateboarder, or colloquially within the skateboarding community, a skater. Skateboarding can be a recreational activity, a job, or a method of transportation. Skateboarding has been shaped and influenced by many skateboarders throughout the years. Skateboarding is relatively modern.

It isn’t clear how the Polynesians actually discovered surfing, but we can all conjecture. Assuming that these ancient people were familiar with paddling in the ocean, they surely understood that while paddling with a swell, one could feel the next wave building behind them. As the wave begins to peak, it pulls you down, and then draws you up, then allowing one to fall along the face of the wave, skipping forward across the surface. It seems to be the best guess that surfing started much like that, a fisherman catches a lift to shore

My dad found a surfing camp on the beach that was cheap so we decided to give it a try. We started the surfing lessons, which were very beneficial; once we got into the water I caught my very first wave and was ecstatic. Surfing was the best thing in the world it was so relaxing and you could get your mind off of things.

They come from all over the world like Hawaii, Oregon, Santa Barbara, and even Florida. They have a passion for surfing and love to do it and are very good too.

“In surfing, water streams past the hand and can cause what’s called lift force. Lift force can only be created when I my hand is a curved surfaces designed, which gives the best ratio of lift to drag. When the water passes over the hand onto a longer surface area, the water is forced or propelled at a greater speed than it would when travelling under the hand, similar to my wider paddling technique. The lift force is in the opposite direction of the force, this gives a surfer greater traction against the water, to catch a wave (Amezdroz, et al,. 2010).”

This photograph was taken on Waikiki Beach in Honolulu, Hawaii in 2015. It was taken during sunset and as the tide had gone out, revealing a wider coastline. The world-famous beach is manmade and since 1951, over 80,000 cubic meters of sand has been imported to replace sand lost through erosion from heavy rainfall, sea swells, wind and tropical storms.

that the surfer use. A longer board allows a to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and is more stable. But it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.