Big Wave Surfing Research Paper

As you are making your way out, you may encounter some large waves. These waves occasionally seem impossible to get around, but there is a way to dodge them. As you see a wave coming, wrap your arms tightly around the board, then flip you and your board over, therefore placing you underwater and your board turned upside down. Because the nose of the board is now pointed downward, the wave will smoothly bypass over you. When you see the wave disappear, you can then flip back over! It is also tricky knowing where to stop paddling and when to start waiting. You don't want to be too close to the shore, yet you don't want to be too far either! Positions change daily, and there are multiple ways on figuring out where to position yourself. One is to know where the current is the strongest and how far apart the waves are from one another. For now, follow other present surfers or ask a lifeguard.

There was a wildfire in northern California’s Big Sur coastline. It had spanned over 42 square miles and firefighters have been fighting to put the fire out before it spreads; damaging more homes. As of now 34 homes have been destroyed, individuals had to evacuate 350 properties, and the flames have threatened approximately 2000 buildings. There have been two reported deaths as a result of the fire; and 11 hikers were rescued. Firefighters have suspected that some of the hikers were responsible for tending to a marijuana patch of 900 plants. Marijuana is illegal to grow and can only be used for medicinal purposes. The California fire and forestry department had stated that, “it would take until the end of August to extinguish a blaze”. In the

Alright, to all you beach bums in the making, listen up. If you are faint of heart take a hike but, if you want to learn how to be awesome keep reading. By the end of this if you’re lucky you just might end up half as cool as us… maybe. By the time you’re done reading this you’ll have the knowledge to do what most people can only dream about. You will be on your way to building your own wave rider.

“Eddie”, a big wave competition, took place at Waimea Beach for the first time in six years this past weekend. The waves that are critical to Big-Wave surfing reached a record height as many of them reached 60 feet this year. In order for a competition to be considered an “Eddie”, the waves must be over 40 feet high and be sustainable all day. This year, El-Nino played a big part to the height of these waves as the weather pattern fueled the water and the creation of them.

A surfboard being shorter, wider and fatter capable of restraining the waves and providing a smooth ride for you rather than a bumpy one. What works for you? What are you riding in the slop out the front after work? What’s connecting with your local? We decided to find out. We approached every big surfboard retailer in the world to see what people are actually walking out of the core shops with. Based on sales numbers and demand, the short answer is surfers today are looking for something that’s a little shorter, wider and fatter to help them catch more waves and have more fun.

On Saturday, September 25th, , an unidentified man was recorded hanging on the windshield wipers on the back of a Joondalup train in Perth, Australia. at around 09/25/2017, 10:26 am. After boarding the train at Leederville while the train was slowing down, the man pressed his body against the windshield at the back of the train, and hung on by the wipers. The police identified man to have been 23 years old when he was dropped of at Stirling Station, where he was arrested by the police. His thrill ride lasted for about 4 minutes and the train was traveling around 70 mph, which would have killed him if he were to have fallen. His entire ride was recorded on video by several motorists who happened to be driving by. The police were so stumped by his act,

“In surfing, water streams past the hand and can cause what’s called lift force. Lift force can only be created when I my hand is a curved surfaces designed, which gives the best ratio of lift to drag. When the water passes over the hand onto a longer surface area, the water is forced or propelled at a greater speed than it would when travelling under the hand, similar to my wider paddling technique. The lift force is in the opposite direction of the force, this gives a surfer greater traction against the water, to catch a wave (Amezdroz, et al,. 2010).”

Surfing is a sport that has been around since the early 1900's. More and more people are falling in love with the sport each and every day. It can be one of the most innovative ways to express an individual's creativity. The two main aspects that people find most enjoyable within the sport are competitive and recreational aspects. Although these two aspects may be completely different, they both can bring out the same joy and love for the sport.

Short boards are very handy and suitable for fast and steep waves. From 5 to 7 meters. They tend usually the nose, a pointed nose and thin rails. They are made for aggressive surfing on the most critical part of the wave.

These massive waves can take out ships of incredible size. In 1968, a 737-foot-long, 46,000-ton supertanker named World Glory was hit and sunk by a rogue wave estimated to be over 70 feet high (Pg. 127). Countless other stories exist of massive rogue waves that appear out of nowhere and swallow entire ships whole.

It all started in 2002 when Nick Woodman he wanted to capture his adventures while he went on his surf trip around the coasts of Australia and Indonesia. He realized that there are no cameras that could capture everything, especially the moments while he was surfing. When the pictures are taken ashore, the barrels look different then they look when you are in the middle of one. He desire for a camera that could capture the professional, undiscovered footage that makes you feel like a HERO. Therefore he developed a wristband holding the waterproof camera against his arm so he could videotape himself while he was surfing and share his surfing exploits with his friends. The initial motive of this invention was created only for personal use for Woodman's traveling. However, when Woodman returned to California with the seed of an idea, he realized that many surfers would actually appreciate this invention and it was conclusively a good business opportunity.

There are several disasters that disturbs the Earth surface. When it comes to powerful force waves, tsunamis got the highest. Most likely tsunamis occur due to earthquakes that alter the ocean floor. Furthermore, the waves increase height by the friction of the sea beds being drag. So, the waves get steeper and steeper, finally, it breakdowns into a surf. In instance, one of the most devastated tsunami happened in Hilo, Hawaii in 1946.

When you are ready to actually ride a wave, you will need to turn the nose of your board around, facing the beach, as a wave approaches. Begin paddling towards the beach and wait for the wave to lift you. At this point, you should begin paddling as hard as you can and lean forward so that the nose of the board will be closer to the water. This will help you to keep momentum. However, as you are leaning forward, you should also raise your chest off the board, which will keep your weight just above the board.

Today surfing is a multi-billion dollar industry. It has been taken up on every continent on Earth. There have been waves surfed that were created by the breaking of an arctic glacier. China has built an indoor wave pool a thousand miles from the closest ocean that perfectly simulates a real breaking wave. People are finding ways to surf by any means necessary. Anyone that has ever picked up a board and paddled into a break owes that experience not only to the ancient pioneers that created the sport but also to the pioneers that popularized it.

that the surfer use. A longer board allows a to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and is more stable. But it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.