FASHION IN THE COLD WAR
By Imani Jones
Analyze how and why the cold war affected both sides’ fashion styles.
The Cold War traumatically affected the lifestyles of the United States, Soviet Union, China and Europe; however, the Cold War played a major role in fashion history. Fashion during the Cold War gave people the opportunity to express themselves through what they wore. Due to Communism in other countries such as China, people were neither able to wear what they wanted nor embrace themselves in the latest fashion trend of that season or even year. In a Communist world, people lived in very basic conditions and cared little about luxuries such as fashion (Fashion Encyclopedia, 2012). Those West of the iron curtain,
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This was a dominant look for women in the late 1940’s and well throughout the 1950’s. Those of both high and middle class were usually the ones to wear fashions as such as these especially since it was now affordable for people of the growing middle class.
The 1950s, often categorized as a time of great conformity was when everybody wanted to act, think and dress the same. Seen in Image 3 in the index, conformity was an action from people in correspondence with socially accepted standards, conventions, rules, or laws. The men and women, who had broken from social norms in regards to gender roles during World War II, were now following back into more traditional roles such as…. (3-5)
According to Sun Xi, in Communist China, the clothing of the 1950s symbolized political and friendly ties between them and Soviet Union. The Lenin coat, tan khaki material, double-breasted with a belt attached, seen in Image 4 in the index, was highly popular around this time in China and had come to China from Russia. It was suitable for both sexes, but more flattering to feminine curves and was considered high revolutionary fashion. Simplicity and thrift were the main objectives in Chinese fashion of the 1950s. Clothing in the colors of green, blue, black, or grey, preferably patched were the most admired. The Lenin coat reflected what they truly believed in which was, labor is beautiful. In the Communistic mind, labor is beautiful would be explained as
After World War II the next threat was the Soviet Union and the growing amount of communism. The fear of communism breed the conformist 1950’s, which created suburbs, consumerism, “organization men”, domesticated women, car culture, and explicit gender rules (I&J, 43-58). Communism engulfed everyone so much that people were afraid to be different. The culture of the 1950’s was not only seen in their everyday lives but shown through advertisements.
As World War Two came to a close, a new American culture was developing all across the United States. Families were moving away from crowded cities into spacious suburban towns to help create a better life for them during and after the baby boom of the post-war era. Teenagers were starting to become independent by listing to their own music and not wearing the same style of clothing as their parents. Aside from the progress of society that was made during this time period, many people still did not discuss controversial issues such as divorce and sexual relations between young people. While many historians regard the 1950s as a time of true conservatism at its finest, it could really be considered a time of true progression in the
Women everywhere used household items, including cellophane and pipe cleaners, to create shoe decorations. Everything was recycled, giving rise to such advertising, Vogue’s “Make Do & Mend” campaign. (Keogh). Shoe factories were told to limit the height of shoe heels to one inch and allowed for only six color choices. For women, nylons stocking were banned. Magazines and beauty salons helped out by offering tips on how to paint legs with back seams and tan using makeup. (Keogh). Clothing was also made to be comfortable. Since women were replacing jobs for men in factories there clothing had to be loose fitting and comfortable. In 1947, Dior introduced the “New Look”, featuring longer lengths and fuller skirts, they were being to look more like women again.Women’s fashion changed to a soft, feminine and romantic image, this set the stage for fashion of women in the next decade.
During the 1950s, American society developed a conformity and obeyed social norms. Television, Music, Movies and the suburbs contributed to the standardizing development by giving an experience exhibiting approved social patterns. The new style of music, Rock-n-Roll gave a clear definition of youth and adulthood during this period. Suburbia and Television became symbols of an era. People got their relaxation and enjoyment by watching movies and TV. The life in 1950s was portrayed as a decade of conformity, prosperity and consensus in the United States.
The post WWII era lives up to its reputation of conformity through its cultural, social and political aspects. Communism and McCarthyism became a major
Thanks to Coco Chanel, the iconic flapper image most closely associated with the roaring twenties came about. The flapper and flapper image didn’t actually come to be until around 1926 and even then was only in style for about three years. Typical flappers were women who appeared to have a bold attitude and were independent women who didn’t adhere to the previously innocent housewife image. A flapper usually had a bob haircut, a shorter than average dress, a flat chest, wore tons of make-up, drank illegal alcohol, smoked with a long cigarette holder, exposed her limbs and danced the Charleston. This was a drastic change from the typical American housewife to the reckless rebel. The flapper dresses stressed above the knee hemlines and construed straight, sleek shapes. This was the first time in centuries women’s legs were being seen in a garment. (1920s Fashion 1) Flappers loved to jazz up their costume and even their image. Many flappers’ dresses were adorned with jewels and intricate beading. The main object of the flapper image was to appear almost boyish rather than looking feminine. (1920s clothing 1)
To what extent did the decade of the 1950s deserve its reputation as an age of political, social, and cultural conformity?
The Great Depression caused woman to want to save money and not spend much on clothing. All over people were struggling to keep money in their pockets, so no one would spend big bucks on designer outfits. Women tended to make their own new clothes from other clothes they already had. “The life motto of many was to ‘Repair, reuse, make do, and don’t waste anything’; therefore, any creativity was apparently confined to those boundaries.(The Vintage News, 2016)” During this time no one wanted to out shine others so they dressed very conservative. Shoulder pads and butterfly sleeves were coming into trend.
With the overwhelming amount of Levittown houses, the obsession to obtain the perfect American “ideal family” as seen on TV and the unspoken agreement to fear any and all foreign ideas and values, the 1950s were revealed to be a decade of prosperity, conformity and consensus. Just ten years later the atmosphere in America was shockingly different; the 1960s were a decade of turbulence, protest and disillusionment due to the ongoing struggle for civil rights, arising feminism, and the Vietnam War.
When historians observe the 1950’s (50’s) and 1960’s (60’s), they tend to generalize both decades. The 1950’s is seen as a era of conformity and political consensus. The 1950’s are normally viewed as a time of peace and prosperity because many Americans were able to save money during World War II. Mainly white Americans will move to less crowded areas and make their living off of white collared jobs. During the 50’s many Americans will view Communism as an evil, economic power and wish to spread Capitalism instead. The 60’s, however, is viewed as a decade of nonconformity and political divisiveness. Many young men would refuse to fight in the Vietnam war, and women would begin to break the tradition of the “stay at home wife,” and begin to join the workforce. However, both decades show conformity and nonconformity.
America in the 1950s had many social norms that everyone was expected to follow. If
Throughout the 1920s through the 1950s Women’s clothing in America was affected by World War II, which lead to the exploration of different styles, the encounter of new trends and the exchange of ideas and new styles.
“were forced out of their wartime occupations and into the domesticity of the new American nuclear family, many women felt disenfranchised. Furthermore, the 1950s are often identified as the pinnacle of gender inequality as women were denigrated and portrayed as ‘stupid, submissive, purely domestic creatures’” (George, 2013).
The Cold War was one of the most influential wars of time. It affected areas all over the world. One of the places where its impact was the strongest was in the United States. The Cold War affected America in many ways. Their culture overall took a turn. Movies, music, education, fashion, etc. all changed over the course of the Cold War.
The Years between the 1950’s and 1960’s was an explosive time in fashion. The 50’s represented an out coming of the new generation. People began to gain their own personal style and appearance, influenced by films and singers (“Vintage Fashion”). Their styles incorporated leather, jeans, corduroy, and the ballet shoes for the girls. Men’s wear began to drastically change. Men would wear a leather jacket, with jeans that narrowed at the bottom, and a simple t-shirt (Peacock 210-211). This was the first time in history that jeans were not just worn by the working class but by all men (“Brief History”). The man’s lust for flesh grew during this time, so women’s skirts began to get shorter and the bikini was invented. Clothes were made to glorify the female body and emphasize every curve. It wasn’t until the Barbie doll was created in the late 50’s that young girls began to have a separate fashion from their mothers. Young girls would wear sweaters with full skirts or pants