Narrative Essay About Surfing

As I looked backed at what seemed to be a decent sized wave, I started paddling with all my might, digging through the water, deeper and deeper. The wave came closer and I felt a push from my cousin as I caught the wave. “Stand up” my cousin yelled behind me as the monstrous wave began to swallow me up. I stood up, rode the wave all the way to the shore, and fell in love with the sport of surfing. Since that day, I have loved everything one could ever love about the sport: The salty water as it touched my body, the push of the wave as it stood me up on my smooth yet sticky board, and the exhilarating rush that I felt after every perfect ride. But not quite everything about the sport came easy to me, it took a long ride to find the love I have for the sport today. When I first started competitively surfing, I

because I remembered how hard it was to get up one ski. My friends convinced me

In this article, Professor Walker discusses Hawai’i in the early 1900s, and how it became a “contested domain, a place where colonial men challenged Native respite and Native surfers vehemently fought haole over waves, women, and beach properties”. He discusses the constant fight put up by the Hawaiian men to defend their land, beaches, families, and most importantly, their waves. “On land, Hawaiians were increasingly marginalized from political, social, and economic spheres in the twentieth century. Yet in the ocean, Native surfers secured a position on top of a social hierarchy. Because Hawaiian surfers contended for this autonomous cultural space, they had the freedom to defy colonial prescriptions for how Hawaiian men should behave. As they transgressed haole expectations and categories in the waves, Hawaiian surfers simultaneously defined themselves as active and resistant Natives in a colonial history that regularly wrote them as otherwise. I argue that these men were empowered in the Hawaiian surf

The journey of competitive swimming started at the age of eight for my local `neighborhood team. I exhibited great potential for the future, for I won nearly all my races. This seemed like the sport

I am the most competitive person you will ever meet. I hate to lose. In everything I do, from swim meets, to track meets, to academic competitions, my goal and my intent is to win. I want to win! Though I don’t necessarily have the great ability to perform like a winner. I’ve had to accept, that maybe, just maybe, I can’t excel at everything. One night, after a particularly devastating swim meet, I sat down and had to think about why I had lost. Maybe my goggles were on too tight! Yes! That had to be it. Or maybe my competitor cheated and just didn’t get caught! All these thoughts were racing through my head, yet the most obvious one never seemed to cross it. Maybe, after all, I just wasn’t as good as he was. No, that wasn’t possible! He and I looked exactly alike! We acted the same! We had nearly the same techniques!

I mostly enjoy surfing when the sun is about to set because of the vibrant colors reflecting off of the the ocean’s face. Gliding across the face of a beautiful wave is the most satisfying feeling in the world, in my opinion. I enjoy taking pictures of the landscape where land meets ocean, the wildlife are so graceful and beautiful. You see, everyone has their own style, whether it’s aggressive, smooth, slow, fast, or just simply riding the wave in a surgical straight line. Surfing, however, takes a long time to accomplish, I have been surfing for ten years and I’m pretty good, not even good, just pretty good. However, surfing inspires me to draw and paint pictures of marine systems and forest landscapes, like Bob Ross. Surfing inspires me to do a lot of things because surfing has taught me not to hesitate when important moments come up. There is no hesitation in surfing you have to be committed to every action you do out in the line up. Not only is surfing just a hobby it is a getaway, a way to escape from all your problems a place to relax and to think about

I hear a rustle from the east side of the beach. I didn’t see them coming, I didn’t even hear them coming until now. My little brother said they came sailing on the ocean like enormous, brown rocks seemingly floating aimlessly without a purpose. I’m not sure about that. They definitely seem to have a purpose. I wonder why they’re here, and what they want, I hope its good but I have this eerie feeling in my stomach and the hair on my back is standing up. It’s not a good sign. They look so pale and deformed. I think the man with the moonlight hair must be the leader. His clothes are so colorful and shine like the glistening sun. Oh, and that man has red, thick hair all over his face. How strange, I’ve never seen that before. I’ve never seen

Surfing is a remarkably dynamic sport. More so than in other outdoor sports, the surfer is at the mercy of the environment. A complex blend of geography, wind, tide, and swell can make the very same beach a small and mild longboard haven one day, a stiff and challenging platform for shortboard acrobatics another day, and a messy jumble of pure danger at other

Have you ever been out on the river, when it's storming out with hail, thunder and lighting? I have before it was pretty dangerous. But it was a good experience and I lived. I just ignored all the warning signs out there because it was a hot long day. That experience tells me to check the weather. Tells me to listen to the warning signs that are given out at the time. But was an awesome story to tell and a beautiful sight of the sky in the end.

“Order up!” yells a juvenile male waiter as he seizes a tray of a mysterious drinks. He brings the tray immediately to my table and blurts, “Two large rainbow shakes with blue straws?”

I remember when I was out with my family on our yacht and we were all playing in the water of the back of the boat. But after a while all the others decided that they would get out and go to the beach, but I wanted to just keep playing in the water around the boat, so I did. But just as everybody was getting ready to get into the little dingy, and I was of the back of the yacht in the water, I could see something black poking out of the water. “Shark” I yelled hoping to get somebody to help and pull the line that attached one of the kayaks to the yacht, But no everybody screamed get the camera. As I was trying to clamber myself up

It’s all right, kid,’ he says. ‘You’re in my boat. I didn’t want to scare you, but I have your stuff; it was all over the beach. I’ll bring it over.’

I remember a time in my life not too long ago when my family and I went white water rafting for the first time. We had been spending some of our summer vacation at a cabin in the Smokey Mountains, close to Gatlinburg, Tennessee. The next day we would experience feelings of exhilarating excitement, with a sense of suspense and anticipation as we rafted down the Nantahala River.

Noah was born on January 20, 2006. He was a few weeks early, and weighed in at only 5 lbs., 4 oz. He showed early on what a fighter he is. He is my hero – C.A.F.

Like it was yesterday I remember my first vacation on a cruise. My Dad and I went on a three- day long cruise to The Bahamas. I had never been on a cruise, so it was a new experience for me. We needed to be in Tampa for our departure, so we drove the two hours from Orlando, Florida to Fort Lauderdale, Florida. My Dad and I used this time to talk, make plans for the trip and think about our upcoming adventures on the cruise.