Personal Narrative: Five Am Waves

I don’t know about you but I have never been surfing. (in the ocean ) My whole life I have surfed behind a boat. This is called wake surfing, it is where a boat tows you and there is a wave behind the boat and you can ride it. I am predicting from this poem that surfing is very hard, but once you get the hang of it you will progress fast. I can just imagine swimming all the way out to the ocean far enough to catch a good wave and by that time you might be tired. Once you find the perfect wave you swim towards it and turn around to ride the wave. As you are paddling very hard you stand up at the perfect time and carve into the wave to get some momentum. This is what I could imagine if I were surfing.

As I looked backed at what seemed to be a decent sized wave, I started paddling with all my might, digging through the water, deeper and deeper. The wave came closer and I felt a push from my cousin as I caught the wave. “Stand up” my cousin yelled behind me as the monstrous wave began to swallow me up. I stood up, rode the wave all the way to the shore, and fell in love with the sport of surfing. Since that day, I have loved everything one could ever love about the sport: The salty water as it touched my body, the push of the wave as it stood me up on my smooth yet sticky board, and the exhilarating rush that I felt after every perfect ride. But not quite everything about the sport came easy to me, it took a long ride to find the love I have for the sport today. When I first started competitively surfing, I

As you are making your way out, you may encounter some large waves. These waves occasionally seem impossible to get around, but there is a way to dodge them. As you see a wave coming, wrap your arms tightly around the board, then flip you and your board over, therefore placing you underwater and your board turned upside down. Because the nose of the board is now pointed downward, the wave will smoothly bypass over you. When you see the wave disappear, you can then flip back over! It is also tricky knowing where to stop paddling and when to start waiting. You don't want to be too close to the shore, yet you don't want to be too far either! Positions change daily, and there are multiple ways on figuring out where to position yourself. One is to know where the current is the strongest and how far apart the waves are from one another. For now, follow other present surfers or ask a lifeguard.

We played a soccer game yesterday against Buhler, we beat them 5-1 our first win of the season. Unfortunately I got injured within like 5 minutes of the game, I sprained my ankle and it hurt really bad so I had to go out of the game for a little bit so the coach could wrap my ankle. After about 5 minutes of walking on it I started getting used to the pain. So the coach asked me if I was good to play, so I said yes. I ended up going back in with about 30 minutes left, so when I went back in coach put me as the striker which is the attacking position. Their team wasn’t so good so I ended up running a bunch because I’m fast and can produce chances. I got a couple of chances to score but didn’t get a goal, Juan Castillo got a goal and that basically ended the half. At half

My dad found a surfing camp on the beach that was cheap so we decided to give it a try. We started the surfing lessons, which were very beneficial; once we got into the water I caught my very first wave and was ecstatic. Surfing was the best thing in the world it was so relaxing and you could get your mind off of things.

I wouldn't classify myself as a great surfer, but I'd been riding pretty regularly since fourteen and once I got my driver's license, regularly turned into a lot. Nonetheless, the swell that day at Rincon humbled me and I wasn't alone. There must have been close to sixty hopefuls perched atop the cliff overlooking the bay trying to muster enough courage to paddle out. Only three brave souls had had the courage to defy mother nature.

At first, surfing was stressful for her, but she managed to learn to do it with one arm. Surfing is hard enough but with a big disadvantage it proved to be even more difficult. Bethany did a lot of competitive surfing, and at first she didn’t get great rankings because of what had happened but she kept training and got better at competitive surfing. One of the first competitions Bethany competed in when she started competitive surfing again, was very stressful for her. One of the girls in the competition tried using Bethany’s disadvantage to her advantage. Bethany was so stressed that day she gave away her surfboards, and felt like giving up. But with the help of her family she went back in the water to keep on living her

Surfing is an ancient art and was first known as "he'e nalu", which translates to wave-sliding. However, surfing wasn't simply a fun sport or a task that these ancient people completed. Instead, it was something that attached them to the sea and they used it to reflect their emotions.

I was born into a surfing family, My dad, uncles and all my cousins have surfed and competed before me. I was taught how to surf when I was only two years old. When I was only six years old my father entered me into my first competition and I won first place. After my first competition I never stopped competing. I’ve been entered into 48 surfing competitions to this day and I’ve won 32 of them! I never stop practicing, I surf everyday before or after school and sometimes both. Every week I surf anywhere from 16 to 20 hours into expanding my techniques and skills. The World Surfing League had recognized me as in the top 10 surfers in the state of California in the months of September, June, July and August of this year! I get invited to surf events such as surf tours and competitions.

Bethany Hamilton was 13 when she was attacked while surfing. She started surfing at 5 years old. She would win major amateur surfing contest by the age of 10. Before her shark attack she was enjoying a day with her best friend Alana, and her best friend’s dad and brother. When out of nowhere a 15 foot tiger shark attacked her, ever since then her life changed. However Bethany got back into the water a day before thanksgiving, reteaching herself how to surf with one hand. Ever since then she’d been an inspiration to people. A year after her attack she won first place at the national championships. After the terrifying shark attack, Bethany Hamilton demonstrated resilience by overcoming the tragedy to achieve her surfing dream.

I enjoy writing and editing, and I like The Wake’s unblinking eye. In all seriousness though, writing is a passion of mine, and there’s nothing more satisfying than making the writing as clean as possible. It is for these basic but essential reasons that I am applying for the Managing Editor and Copy Editor positions.

In all honestly, surfing is beside the point, surfing has resurrected a part of myself that has been lost for far too long.

Paddle boarding is when you’re standing on a board, and you’re paddling around the water and you’re also catching waves. It was heaps of fun, I really enjoyed it. When I first tried paddle boarding it was at the beach near us called The Cove, which is a little hidden spot where not too many people are. When I first went I was able to get taught on what to do so I got local’s tips.I wasn’t too good in the beginning, I had to be on my knees most of the time, since standing was too hard, but after a while I started getting the hang of it and started catching waves. Then, as a present we were able to go to this hotel, The Grand Wailea where we got tickets to use their activities meaning kayaks, paddle boards, and snorkel equipment. It was exceptional to be there from sunrise to noon and do so much. My sister, Dad and I went out together and we finally stood for a long time on the paddle boards. Honestly, the only reason I started trying to stand was because my knees started to hurt, but then I discover how much more comfortable it is to stand. We stayed together for a while, until breaks where needed. Since I absolutely loved paddle boarding I went on my own after a brief break. Going by myself was a bit nerve-racking but by then there was a mass of people in the water so I was okay. The entire time I was out, I didn’t fall once. The one time I almost did was when I saw this dark moving figure in

This past weekend I went back to my home town; Jacksonville, Fl, and visited with some of my old friends from high school. Since we all live so close to the beach we all decided to have a beach day on Saturday. While we were at the beach on Saturday we all decided to rent two paddleboards and try it out. None of us have ever paddled boarded before this just surfed, but we always see people paddle boarding at the beach so we thought it was going to be pretty easy. My friend Michelle and I were the first two people that went out to try it and my other friend jo just laughed at us from the beach. It was a lot harder than what we thought especially in not a calm ocean. We kept getting up then falling down over and over again, but despite all our efforts it was a very fun experience. I don’t think I stood up on the paddle board for more than 2minutes, but it was a great challenge. I loved it because there was

Ever wanted to try surfing? Well now one can begin with these simple steps. This essay will teach the basics of surfing along with the equipment needed. Surfing is very simple and can be done with four pretty simple steps and a little prep.