Essay Surfing

In the article it states. In the grace of the ocean or the power of the waves some people think when did surfing begin? We know it wasn’t a happy go lucky beach boy from the 80s. Most people believe it was invented by fisherman to get their fish into shore quickly. Later it became a sport of kings the richest people and the kings had up to about 18 to 24 feet long. Instead of calling it surfing the Hawaiians “he e nalu,” or wave sliding. In 1777 Captain James Cook observed canoe surfing in Tahiti and wrote “I can not help concluding that the man had great pleasure!” But do to the Europeans coming to Hawaii they got a lot of diseases and cause most surfing to stop. In 1866 a man named Mark Twain went to Hawaii to rediscover the past and brought

Imagine you are at the beach. You are laying down a towel and setting up an umbrella when something catches your eye. Out in the ocean you see a surfer catching some waves, and it looks so fun and exciting that you almost grab a board and join in. However you don’t know how to surf and would rather not embarrass yourself in front of all these beach goers. Surfing, however, isn’t complicated at all and can be accomplished in these simple steps.

Originating in California as a way surfers could be able to surf when the waves were flat. The original creator isn’t known as it seems that everybody seemingly came together with the idea at approximately the same time. The first manufactured skateboards were ordered in a Los Angeles surf shop in California. The shop owner Bill Richard organized with Chicago Roller Skate Company to produce skate wheels to be used with the boards. Towards the later 60’s, there was a trend of shops dedicated to skateboarding or “Street surfing” referred to at the time. The evolution of the board went from a rectangle piece of wood to resembling a surf board. As skateboarding continued to become more popular, the first skateboarding magazine, “The

The inclusion of footage of Koby surfing successfully at a turbulent time with the law had the purpose to re-channel the focus from the negative aspects of the “Bra Boys” history to the favourable events that portray them as surfing legends. Abberton was strongly promoting the moral that the “Bra Boys” as a whole, turn their disadvantage into success as the surf was their saviour. Koby Abberton was the figurehead for this storyline and by the use of his career achievements; it effectively cancelled out the negative judgements that could arise from his court case. The use of extreme long shots of the giant waves in Tahiti and Hawaii and the small surfer riding the mammoth waves acted a strong symbol. The relative size of the wave which was further emphasised by the choice of camera shot represents the amount of variables against Koby Abberton – representing the “Bra Boys”.

In Shaped by the Word, by Robert Mulholland Jr., one finds a way to read scripture in order to provide a deeper understanding of God and allow His Word to shape one’s spiritual life. In the Introduction, in chapter 1, the reader is introduced to the idea that there is a movement in the church that seeks to become deeper and stricter in spiritual formation. He claims there are many books written for this purpose, and his intending purpose for this book is for God to use however he may want in the reader’s spiritual life. Mulholland provides the reader with a prayer to pray in preparation of reading this book and states there may be points where God is knocking and calling the reader’s attention to something new.

Some would say it's like snowboarding, whereas others would say it's like skateboarding. I, on the other hand, believe surfing is unlike any other sport. Besides it being loads of fun and freeing your mind, it is also a great workout. Problem is, though, many people wonder how to get started and learn what to do. That's where I come in.

As my ninth-grade English teacher, Mrs. Newton would say, without a good hook to start your essay, no one will ever read it. As I was taught, a hook is a crucial part in your essay because it will help grab the audience’s attention so that they will continue to be invested throughout the paper. For example, the hook could be a question or a quote about the overall topic of your essay. In my junior year, we had to do a controversial essay and I used a quote from a famous tattoo artist as my hook because I did my essay over tattoos and piercings. After the hook, the introduction begins to take form and show the audience what your essay is about. The introduction is the first thing in your essay that will tell the audience what the essay is about. The introduction paragraph should be as interesting as the initial hook and keep the audience invested in the paper. It will establish the basis of the essay and should contain the thesis statement. The thesis statement is the point in your essay where you will state the topics that the essay will contain. In high school, we were taught that the thesis should contain the three points that you will elaborate upon in your three body paragraphs: the weakest point, the middle point, and the strongest point.

Being a native to Hawaii was a helpful push towards legendary status for Eddie Aikau. The act of riding waves with a wooden type board originated in Western Polynesia over three thousand years ago (The Origins of Surfing). The first Polynesian settlers to land in Hawaii were said to be skilled in simple surfing, and after a few hundred years of riding waves in Hawaii, the well-known Hawaiian form of the sport emerged (The Origins of Surfing). Eddie Aikau propelled in surfing because of his love for the ocean, his job as a lifeguard, and his first surfing competitions.

As with understanding any culture, true understanding comes from sensitivity, awareness, and lack of superficiality. To mainstream American culture in the 1960s and today, surfer dudes look lazy. They look like they do not have careers or ambitions outside of surfing the perfect wave. To conservative outsiders, surfer dudes can look like they continually evade normative responsibilities in pursuit of great waves around the world. They may even seem reckless because surfing, while exhilarating, is a very dangerous sport. Surfer dudes, particularly big wave surfer dudes put their lives at risk each time they go out for a surf. It may look like they are needlessly putting themselves in harm's way for the sake of a fleeting thrill. These are some facts about surfer dude culture, but these facts do not provide a substantial context within which to fully perceive and understand

Surfing: Cardio, conditioning. Surfing requires constant core balance and upper body strengthening by paddling. It's similar to an interval-type workout because you are paddling for waves, popping up on your feet, and maintaining full body motion with balance. This activity strengthens and requires various muscle groups.

Bethany shows a great deal of perseverance through her journey. Even with the tragic loss of her arm, she didn’t give up her dream to become a professional surfer. After being discharged from the hospital, Bethany tried more than four times to catch a wave, but finally she prevailed. Her family was ecstatic when she stood on the board

Her parents were passionate about surfing and they passed along their love of the beach to Bethany and her brothers, Noah and Timmy. When Bethany was eight, she joined the competitive surfing circuit. Her whole family became involved in her training. Her dad taught her techniques and surfing tips while her mom, Cheri, homeschooled her. Cheri was a strict teacher and made sure that Bethany never fell behind on her work while her brothers toughened her up for all her competitions. Bethany’s family taught her that it was okay to lose sometimes because there would always be a next time when she could win. Bethany’s attachment to surfing was in her blood as she said “Surfing is a force that moves your body and soul.” (Hamilton, 122). She practiced for hours everyday and loved everything about her surfing world especially her friends. As she began winning competitions, Bethany’s brother Noah started sending pictures of her surfing to various companies that manufactured clothing. Soon after that, the company Rip Curl sponsored Bethany and gave her free clothes and equipment to use while she surfed. Bethany was a rising star in the field of competitive

Bethany Hamilton is a brave surfer who survived a shark attack and faced her fears to continue doing what she loves. She was born in Kauai in 1990 and started surfing when she was 4 years old. At the age of 8, she got a gold medal in her first competition and since then she would have the first place in every championship she took part of. She was so talented that she could do amazing tricks that surfers her age couldn’t. Therefore, she had Rip Curl as a sponsor. However, in 2003 she was laying on her surfboard with her left arm underwater and a tiger shark bit it. Luckily, she was accompanied by her friends, so they helped her to get to the beach. Although she had a tremendous fear, Bethany didn’t hesitate in returning to the waves

My dad found a surfing camp on the beach that was cheap so we decided to give it a try. We started the surfing lessons, which were very beneficial; once we got into the water I caught my very first wave and was ecstatic. Surfing was the best thing in the world it was so relaxing and you could get your mind off of things.

The most important skill in surfing is learning the correct paddling technique. A good paddler catches plenty of waves while poor