The Valentino dress and the 1870 dress both have a wide sleeve that came back during the late 19th century. Both sleeves resemble what we would call now the bell sleeve, which is wide and loose around the wrists. These two dresses are very similar in the wide sleeve detail, and the valentine dress is defiantly influenced by this 1870 sleeve detail. The 1870 dress was worn during the bustle period, which got is name from the device that provided the shape on the full skirt many women wore (Tortora and Marcketti, 384). When focusing on daytime dresses, pleated and fringed trimmings were attached to sleeves to add detail (Tortora and Marcketti, 392). Evening dresses often had elbow length sleeves that finished with a loose fit detailed with
In the 1830s there were innovations in roller printing on textiles which introduced new fabrics for women. Men wore padded shoulders and women wore colossal sleeves to emphasize on a thin waist. A new fashion arrived; low boots with elastic insets. Men began wearing “greatcoats” for day wear. 1830:
Females wore fitted bodice dresses in waist-length and full skirts in various styles from the 1830s to1860s. Toddler boys and little girls wore similar clothes, but they were different from women’s fashion. The bodice of the children’s garment was unfitted and gathered into an inset waistband; the neckline at that time usually had a wide off-the-shoulder style; the top had short sleeves in puffed or cap cuts; the length of a full skirt had a varied style that the toddlers wore below-knee length, and the oldest girls wore calf length. Furthermore, the fabric of daywear dresses for girls used printed cottons or wool challis. Under the dresses, little girls and boys wore white cotton ankle-length trousers, called pantaloons or pantalets.3 In the
Grandmother's and Aunt Henrietta's wardrobes consisted of the fashions of their day. There were the tucks, laces, ruffles, eyelets, and full skirts always becoming to each of them. Ruffles for petticoats were often 18 to 24 inches’ deep eyelet. These helped make the skirt or dress perfect. Ribbons and jewelry helped complete the ladies' fashions.
As the economy developed coupled with industrialism in the 1800 's, there was a surge of aggressiveness to keep women within the home, where they could be easily controlled. Current fashion for this time, which included heavy petticoats and
women on the other hand, often had the stays as part of the outfit themselves(Rose). The jackets were aimed at the triangular shape as well. As said in the article Ruffled Shirts and Tailored Jackets.”Women commonly wore riding habits with what could be considered a precursor to the modern work-suit: jackets that cinched at the waist and form-fitting skirts. Victorian jackets also were often trimmed with fur or other sorts of piping.”(Rose).
Before the 1920’s, women’s attire was considered fairly modern. Women would have worn clothing with more of a silhouette than clothing that was loose and flowy. The length of their dresses never revealed more of their leg than just their ankle. Women received bad reputations when showing their knees or even their calfs. Women in the 1920’s also had a different ideal figure than most women do today. The body types women wanted to achieve also transformed into a more feminine look. This look consisted of low bust lines, higher hems lines, and showing off more curves than ever before. These women became unapologetically fearless.
It is the broadness and smoothness of the fabric that portray this century's clothing style. It could be that the fine pleats of the bliauts were discontinued, and instead, made with full bodied, sheered wool cloth - which hung in large weighty folds. One of the most common garments of the thirteenth century was the cote. Typically, the standard cote consisted of a bodice that was loosely fit, with a belt or mantle synched over the waist. Fashioned with Dolman sleeves that narrowed at the wrist, but was fuller at the upper arm. Although most images do not depict fastenings, it is logical that the garment would have needed to have a loop or a button, or would have possibly been laced up the center back neck, and wrists. Women's cote's were floor length (fig. 18), but if exerting physical labor, they "...adopted a half calf cote or used a belt to raise the skirt above the fashionable length. (173, Payne) Later in the 1200s, cotes sometimes had a split in the front of the skirt, that was easier to tick away for physical activities, such as lawn games and horseback riding. The belt could be decorative or dull, and in some church statues show the cote falling from the shoulder;
By 1925, dresses had become shorter than ever, coming up higher above the ankle. They also had longer waists, becoming more reminiscent of little girl’s dresses in previous years. Because of the shorter length, garters also became more popular among women.
The dress style for ladies continued to have an emphasis on the narrow waist, but the bodice shifted to a low-necked gown trimmed with fabrics, lace ruffles, or a fichu tucked into the low neckline.The front of the skirt was open to feature a separate petticoat, which made up the ensemble.
Most fashionable women wore what was called the “Josephine Look”, which was basically the empire waist design. This look would have consisted of lace bust and a high neckline, again coming in just below the bust and slowly flowing out. Ellen’s decision to wear the “Josephine Look” highly demonstrated her need to display her extravagant and modern fashion trends. Later in this chapter, Newland Archer says that no one in the Mingott family would have worn a dress that was so bold and noticeable, but Ellen did. The defiance Ellen had towards her choice of clothing demonstrates her spunky and dissident
The Victorian Era depicted a traditional woman. Women were expected to be beautiful but conservative. A notable fashion piece to mention is the notorious corset. Krystal D’Souza states that corsets were meant to, “… accentuate a woman's breasts and hips, while cinching the body at the waist, and dramatically curving the back” (D'Souza). The corset was created to slim the waist and make the hips and bottom larger. This was meant to create the ideal, “Hour glass shape,” women were expected to have. In the Victorian Era, dresses were worn all the time and the skirt length had to be passed the ankles. Pagoda sleeves were essential to dresses to cover shoulders and high necklines were made to cover the women’s neck and décolletage. If the skirts were not touching the floor, skirts were closely worn over the hip and flared out just above the knee. (Joshi). The Victorian Age signifies a time period where women had to follow stringent dress codes. The thought of showing any feminine flesh was un-lady like and unrespectable. (Alchin “Women
1810-1820 was in the moment of padded shoulders, high waist dresses and pants, firm fabric, and soft colors. The dresses changed 1820-1830s and were more romantic. The waistline was dropped, the sleeves were raised, the shoulder was more puffed and twilled fabrics were used more. Throughout 1830-1840 the hour glass figure became popular. The sleeves were longer and the puffy shoulder extended to the elbow.
They wore their best dress with a kirtle on top, which is the thing they wore over their dress. If they had money available, they could buy a new dress. It became tradition by the mid-19th century
Before the 1920’s, women’s attire was considered fairly modern. Women would have worn clothing with more of a silhouette than clothing that was loose and flowy. The length of their dresses never revealed more of their leg than just their ankle. Women received bad reputations when showing their knees or even their calfs. Women in the 1920’s also had a different ideal figure than most women do today. The body types women wanted to achieve also transformed into a more feminine look. This look consisted of low bust lines, higher hems lines, and showing off more curves than ever before. These women became unapologetically fearless.
It wasn’t until the 1930s that ready to wear clothes became available with multiple fabrics. Fabrics started to become more elaborate. They could now be embroidered or have prints and designs. Many women began to wear scarves with fringed edges. This was when beaded designs, bright colors and fringes became popular on dresses too (Hossell).