Who Is Elsa Schiaparelli?

There have been and still are hundreds of fashion designers in the world. But only a few of them have had any major impact on fashion industry today. And even fewer have revolutionised the fashion industry completely. One of these revolutionaries is the renowned Christian Dior. He reestablished Paris as the centre of the fashion world, and created his name as a symbol of elegance, quality, and modernity. I will be looking into how Dior’s context informed his practice, by using three of his most iconic and popular designs; The Bar Suit, Venus Dress and the Cygne Noir dress. And how these were a direct representation of 1945-1950 France.

using water colors and oils, and did excellent pen and ink drawings. He began to make a name for

Like many successful designers Coco had humble beginnings as a hat designer in 1910. Her unique hat styles made her noteworthy in the Parisian

At the age of twenty-one, Blake completed his seven-year apprenticeship and began to work on projects for book and print publishers. He also attended the Royal Academy of Art’s Schools of design, where he began unveiling his own personal works

At this time Paris was fun and careless before the French Revolution of 1789 released its horrors on it. But the outbreak of the revolution changed everything, and with all of the violence around, she fled France with her daughter to find safety in Italy (Moffat and Mossman). When she returned, Paris was a completely different place. However, the demand for her art had not changed. Vigee Le Brun is considered a painter of the rococo period. Rococo is best described as an eighteenth century art style that places importance on the carefree life rather than grand heroes. Originally the rococo fashion started in Paris, where Vigee Le Brun was born. It changed the way people looked at art and the world in general (Bleiberg). Vigee Le Brun not only used the rococo style in her art, but also to influence fashion, persuading women to wear simple, high waist shifts, which would be an important stepping stone in changing fashion forever. By refusing to put powder in her hair, she made being natural beautiful. If it weren’t for her innovations we might still be wearing Victorian gowns and wigs. She made fashion and styles for young women, such as herself, more daring and interesting (Steadman).

Schiaparelli moved to Paris, where she began designing her own clothes after working in a boutique in New York. Schiaparelli was born on September 10, 1890 in Rome, Italy and she died in November 131973 in Paris, France (age 83). Schiaparelli studied at the University of Rome. Schiaparelli had one child with her husband. Schiaparelli also designed clothes for the theater. Elsa’s work appeared in over 30 movies over while working in her fashion career. In 1951 Schiaparelli stopped her couture business . When Elsa died she continued to be a huge fashion designer . It was in London that she met her husband ‘Count William de Wendt de Kerlor’. They had a daughter ‘Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha de Wendt de Kerlor’ but she can also be known as ‘Gogo Schiaparelli’.

He continued his education at the Carnegie Institute in Pennsylvania graduating with a BA in Fine Art. Warhol moved to New York in 1948-49 where he started work as a graphic designer, creating adverts for fashion magazines such as Glamour, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Andy Warhol shot to fame and soon became highly respected as a commercial artist. ”Tina Fredrick, then art director of Glamour” says “She was thrilled by Andy’s drawings but could not find a commercial use for them. She told him his drawings were good, but Glamour could only use drawings of shoes at the moment. The next day Warhol came back with 50 drawings of shoes” footwear being an important part of his advertising career until the mid 1960s.

Coco Chanel, born Gabrielle Bonhuer Chanel, on August 19, 1883 in Saumur, France was an amazing woman who redefined fashion as we know it today. She was a clothing designer who revolutionized the fashion industry with her suits, little black dresses, and avant garde flare. Because of this quickly in her young life she became well know, and rose to be the fashion icon that she is today. From the timeless designs that are still popular to this day, and the sophisticated outfits that can be paired with great accessories Chanel has done it all. When it comes down to it though it was Coco Chanel’s philosophy that “luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it’s not luxury” that lead to her success. (“Coco Chanel”)

After working with his uncle at the age of eighteen, he was invited by Filippo Tommaso Marinetti in 1927 to come join 'the second generation of Futurist' where they showcased his work in several exhibitions and continued into the 1930s. He was a major influence in his life as he sparked the artistic desire within

Elsa Schiaparelli was another star in the 30’s along with Chanel, but the contrast between them was nothing more but interesting. Their designs were different, looked upon as day and night, but still representing the extremes of couture, but they catered to the same clients.

Coco Chanel, born on August 19, 1883 in Saumur, France, influenced 1920s fashion greatly through her trademark pieces such as “little black dress” and jersey suits and many more. These key fashion pieces are still very popular in our current day time in women’s fashion. Before Chanel became well known, most women would wear corsets that would leave them feeling stiff to give them more of a hour glass look as well as skirts with long hems that would reach the floor. Chanel went past the social boundaries of most women, and created different and diverse pieces. She disregarded societies idea of

Figure 1 created by Paul Poiret, and figure 2 created by Coco Channel were both designs based on art deco style. Both of these designers came about in the early 20th century as the role of woman in society was changing. In figure 1 Poiret created “ The Fancy Dress costume” in France for his “The One Thousand and Second Night” party in 1911. This resplendent design included his signature Lampshade tunic and harem pants as well as a jeweled buster using metal, silk, and cotton. Most of this design was created with sea foam green silk gauze, which then was interwoven with silver and blue thread, and then turquoise, pink, and peach beading that was symmetrically placed. Both designers diverged from the confining and tight-fitting corsets and aimed to create comfortable yet elegant clothing that mirrored the free and self-sufficient attitudes rising in woman. Both of the designers’ designs have dropped waste lines. However, Poiret’s radical design uses opulent and luxurious fabric and materials and is focused on the decorative aspect. His design is created to be “one-of-a-kind” and uses many vibrant colors, rich embellishments, and embroideries. Poiret resisted the practicality, rationalization, and stylistic simplification that Chanel adapted to create. In figure 2

Elie Saab developed an interest on fashion starting from early ages. Built his first atelier only at the age of 18. His passion for fashion and haute couture grew in the following years and has dedicated himself to his brand from design to brand and customer communications .According to him :“Couture was a creative engine for the entire brand, a marketing tool for foundation of an image on a profound long term level.”

I will also be discussing the influence that Elsa Schiaparelli has been having on the distinct creation of surrealism in fashion, focusing

Schiaparelli Beachwear by George Hoyningen-Huene is a photograph that embodies the elegance and class that Huene strove to capture in every photograph. Originally the photograph was taken in a 1928 photo shoot with the French beachwear designer Elsa Schiaparelli, and was later published in Vogue in the same year. The photograph emits a resounding sense of balance and unity with the strategic use of lighting and contrast to draw the composition and clothing together. The element of repetition is used effectively throughout the composition, creating an atmosphere that draws the viewers attention to the smallest of details. Although the purpose of this photograph was specifically shot to advertise the newest Schiaparelli swimwear, it is a remarkable example of the precise nature in which Huene composed every one of his powerful photographs.