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Who Is Roland Barthes Opium Fragrance

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A 1992 commercial for Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium fragrance, directed by David Lynch, takes the pleasurable sensual experience of perfume to faraway places via mythologized drug analogy and orientalist fantasy. The commercial follows a female model’s ritualistic use of Opium perfume. She walks upstairs in an elegant modern home, passes a grand piano, sits on a divan, and undoes the top of a bottle of Opium. Her eyes close, her deep breaths rise over the soundtrack, and it is clear that the fragrance has intoxicated her as if it were literally the substance of its namesake. By the logic of Roland Barthes’ semiotic theories and his book Mythologies, this perfume ad’s signifiers of drug use and the East create an environment of sensual exoticism that glazes over the more complex realities of such signified …show more content…

This commercial relies on a strategy of myth making that Barthes calls exoticism, in which the established order constructs the other as an object or spectacle (Barthes 266). The mythology of Orientalism, an exoticism with a specific East Asian focus, reduces Chinese history and culture into aesthetic qualities that can be used to incite feelings of exotic escape in Western consumers. Barthes’ theories of mythology are explained through semiotics, which understands signifiers as images that stand in for other concepts, and the signified as what is replaced by signifier images. The myths created out of relationships between signifier may seem so natural and depoliticized to their readers that they go unnoticed. A number of signifiers in the commercial stand in for a general signified essence of “the East”. At the beginning and end of the commercial, a folding fan rolls across the screen. At the end, white orchids float into the left half of the image, as Opium’s red and gold bottle dissolves into the right. The fan, the white orchids, and the design of the Opium bottle are all signifiers of warm, sensual, feminine qualities with a specific “Eastern” bent. At

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