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Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536

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BuyFindarrow_forward

Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536
Textbook Problem

If a wave 60 meters long travels through water that is 25 meters deep, is the wave feeling bottom? As the wave approaches land, how high can it get before it breaks?

To determine

Whether the wave feels the bottom if a wave measuring 60 meters long travels through water that is 25 meters deep. Also, calculate how high it can get before it breaks as the wave approaches the land.

Explanation

Given info:

Wavelength = 60 metersDepth = 25 meters

Waves can feel the bottom at a depth less than or equal to half of its wavelength. In this question, half of the wavelength is 30 meters and depth is 25 meters. Since the given depth is less than half of the wavelength, it can feel the bottom.

When the steepness of a wave exceeds 17, it breaks. Assume that the wavelength does not change

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