Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536



Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536
Textbook Problem

What controls the size of wind waves?

To determine

The factors controlling the size of wind waves.


Most of the waves created in the surface of the standing bodies of water are created by the wind. The flow of wind across the surface of water creates frictional drag and pressure differences, which cause the irregularities in the surface of the water.

Waves often travel very long distances from the storm wind that created them, with restricted loss of energy. The initial stage of a storm in an open ocean creates small ripples on the water surface. The increase in wind causes transformation ripples into larger waves. Waves are steep, choppy, and chaotic under the influence of a storm. When the storm minimizes, the waves become more arranged as they sort themselves into groups of similar length and speed. These more arranged waves that have traveled outside the zone of generation are swelled, and it will arrive at coastal lines even without the coastal winds...

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