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Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536

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BuyFindarrow_forward

Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536
Textbook Problem

How do waves change when they enter shallow coastal waters? What is the main factor causing this change in the waves?

To determine

The way in which waves change when they enter shallow coastal waters and the main factors causing this change in waves.

Explanation

Ocean waves are the energy waves that are traveling along the interface between the ocean and atmosphere. Wind is the major source of energy which shapes up and modifies the shorelines.

The waves are unaffected by depth in deep waters. As the wave approaches the shore, the water depth affects the wave as it is of shallower depths. The interference of the wave bottom with the water depths slows down the advance of waves.

As the wave approaches the shore, the wavelength and speed decreases and the wave constantly rises high...

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