Personal Narrative-Growing Up In The Beach

Unfortunately, I was right and I hit the water hard. My legs flew back behind my head and my board slammed into my skull. It hurt so bad. Looking down at my hot pink life jacket, I saw it was stained with red. The smell of blood hit my nose. Reaching back to where the board had hit my head, I could feel the warm flow of blood. I looked up to see the boat headed back to pick me up.

Alright, to all you beach bums in the making, listen up. If you are faint of heart take a hike but, if you want to learn how to be awesome keep reading. By the end of this if you’re lucky you just might end up half as cool as us… maybe. By the time you’re done reading this you’ll have the knowledge to do what most people can only dream about. You will be on your way to building your own wave rider.

The morning was perfect, the weather and the wind were promising it will be an unforgettable experience. He was truly sure that he would have faced the most challenges wave in his surfer career. However there were many others surfer around and it was quite difficult to find an appropriate place for him to fully express his talent without having to deal with the limited space or the risk to be hurtled by others.

I could feel my lungs burning in my chest as oxygen entered only to be forced back out. I push myself to continue moving my arms, pushing the water behind me so I could propel myself forward. At that moment, many things floated around my conscience. It was so intense that I felt like giving up everything I had worked so hard for: the 10-hour online-training, the initial interview, the prior physical training, and the self-determination to achieve my goals. These thoughts were embedded in my mind as I took a side breath, struggling to continue my freestyle stroke.

The story ‘Soul surfer’ written by Bethany Hamilton is about a 13 years olds surfer who had lost her arm in a shark attack and many thought so she had given up her surfing but this brave young girl never lost her faith in surfing and her triumphant return to competitive surfing began a journal in her life. in that time when it happen on that halloween morning there was a chance that she would die or live. And luckily she lived and survived through that horrific moment of her life.

I think my brother had the same thought because next thing I knew; I was racing him into the water not even thinking about what I was doing. Let me first just say that this was my first time swimming in the ocean, let alone in the forceful, salty Hawaiian waves. As my brother and I began to get more and more comfortable, we moved out further and further until my mom yelled “okay kids! That’s far enough.” So, either no one told me how to swim in the ocean, or I was too excited to listen, but the message never got across to me on how to swim in the ocean. There is a difference between waves you need to swim under and waves that would do no harm swimming over. I thought I had gotten the hang of it … but then this happened; I heard the sound of an enormous wave approaching and no time to react. I turned around right as the wave was crashing over me. I have never felt a force that strong to have one second been almost up to my shoulders in water to the next, completely submerged underwater being carried by the waves. I heard nothing but water rushing all around

Where the heck are we, Wonderland? I thought as panic wrapped its icy figures around my throat. Relax. Just breathe. In and out it’s easy, I told myself listening to the soothing sound of lapping waves gently caressing the cream-colored sand. I repeated it like a mantra twice, and had almost mastered my jumpy nerves when I spied something bobbing on the purple swells.

“Okay everybody, gather around! Great practice today! Next week is a big week. Our championship surf meet is right around the corner. Keep hydrated and I will see you tomorrow.” Coach Doug yelled.

Knowing I swam as slow as my grandma walked, I simply didn’t try. Deep inside, I know what I wanted. I love sitting underwater to the point where everything looks blurry, and when I can’t breathe any longer, I come up. This gives me a chance to be thankful that I didn’t die. I started to do that, and for a while I stopped to catch my breath. I noticed that everybody separated again, and people stared to come to the pool. We went all the way to 6 feet and were trying to stand on our toes to talk to each other. Being 5’2, it was almost

It was an early Saturday morning for Bruce Rowan, a close family friend. It was 6:30 a.m. when he decided that he would go surfing, because that’s when the waves are the best. The forecast for Saturday April 14th, 2018 was looking like a clear day with minimal rain. A surfer couldn’t pass up this opportunity. He got to Lyford Cay Marina where everyone kept their boats, and unloaded the surfboards from his car and loaded them in his 22 foot boat. As he started his boat, and drove out of the marina, he started to get more and more excited as he could already see the big waves starting to break in the distance. He arrived to Love Beach, a popular tourist spot on the North West side of the island. Deciding where to anchor your boat is always a

When you learn to read waves, you'll be observing how frequently the sets come in, where the wave is breaking, and how well-formed (and surfable) the wave is. Every surfer takes time to watch the waves before getting in the water, and sometimes what they see is that the beach isn't good for surfing that day.

It all began in the early 1970s when Dogtown, located in Venice Beach, California was home to a secret surfing cove. This area was constantly populated by pyromaniacs, drug addicts, artists, and of course surfers’, but most importantly the Zephyr surf team. This team was known as “The mafia of the waves” (Peralta, 2002). While surfing on the coast, this team relentlessly practiced new and unique moves on the beachfront. Little did they

Surfing isn’t easy, but it is very exciting and addicting. If you are someone who likes non contact sports, and enjoys being outside, this is the sport for you. Unlike a lot of other sports, you are hot and sweaty in a gym, however surfing in the ocean makes you feel cool on a hot day. If you are a beginner, it may be very challenging to catch a wave. It is recommended to use a soft foam board. These boards are lightweight, don't require wax, and easy to get up and stand on. Before you decide to get in water, you need to make sure that you find the right spot with just enough waves. I would not recommend going into an area with very big waves because surfing as a beginner, it would be very overwhelming. As a beginner, when catching a wave, you want to be waist deep and in an area where the waves have already broken. At this spot, you can practice standing up.

“Lean”, “Lean”, “Lean”, at this point we were just screaming lean and trying to stay calm which didn't work out too well.I was pretty surprised that we were saying in the wake I kept repeating to myself, since now we are of of the wake, “keep calm and ride the waves” which is the motto that I have made up, Because I was very scared of falling off. Now my leg falls off and Colby is trying to get me back on and I do so now there is so many bumps and I have no clue what is going on, I am slipping, sliding and then both of my legs fall off, I am like “oh no” I am wet so I and I am trying to grasp the handle. I am also sweating so it is hard and I now only have one hand on the tube with two feet and one arm off. I am bobbing and bouncing up and down in the water.

It was actually one of the firsts manips I tried after I realized I might actually be able to pull it off. It took a few tries and after some research I realized I’m not going to find the beach shot I’m looking for without paying for it, so I went with a video from YouTube.