history of surfing Essay

Skateboarding has rich history of innovation and is full of intriguing stories. Many of these stories are documented in this book in great detail. However, this essay will provide you with an overview of the last nine decades.

I don’t know about you but I have never been surfing. (in the ocean ) My whole life I have surfed behind a boat. This is called wake surfing, it is where a boat tows you and there is a wave behind the boat and you can ride it. I am predicting from this poem that surfing is very hard, but once you get the hang of it you will progress fast. I can just imagine swimming all the way out to the ocean far enough to catch a good wave and by that time you might be tired. Once you find the perfect wave you swim towards it and turn around to ride the wave. As you are paddling very hard you stand up at the perfect time and carve into the wave to get some momentum. This is what I could imagine if I were surfing.

According to the article, “the ocean-going canoe was the vehicle that Austronesian speakers employed to expand across the South Pacific” (p. 278). Thousands of miles were traveled in these canoes, boats that lacked an auxiliary motor and navigational equipment. Voyagers had to rely solely on natural forces to propel

On the other hand, Austronesian migrations were covered by canoe. They were technologically advanced and even transported plants and animals from one place to another. Essentially, these migrations were bigger and better than anything before. They covered a larger area faster and were able to advance quickly.

How did the Polynesians find their way to Hawaii, over two thousand miles from any other land? Was it over population at home, or political turmoil? Whatever reason for leaving these people used amazing knowledge and skill of the ocean and of the sky to navigate them to this new land. They faced the unknown and braved into the wide-open ocean for long periods of time. The real focus in this paper is on the navigation techniques that they used in these voyages throughout the Pacific.

Polynesia was a massive country forming a triangle that stretched between New Zealand in the west, Rapa Nui in the east, and Hawaii in the north. This triangle covered 10 million square miles. It was discovered by these amazing people who were like the astronauts of the time, because of their amazing exploration skills. Remarkably, these Polynesians arrived in Hawaii 1,000 years before Columbus sailed to the Americas. They were considered some of the greatest explorers in all of history. These explorers were able to discover every livable land mass and island in the Pacific, without the use of modern technology. All they had were canoes that were very similar to the Hokulea. Polynesian explorers relied heavily on the stars, winds, waves, and other signs from nature to navigate the ocean.

As early as 400 CE the Polynesian people from the Marquesas Islands set sail in their double hulled canoes to find new land because of their poor agriculture. The Polynesians (who were very skilled farmers and fisherman) from the marquesas island were wanting to discover new land so this discovery of the big island in Hawaii was definitely intentional (Hawaii-guide, 2004).Hawaii is famous for a dance called the hula and the musical instrument called the ukulele. The ukulele was used in the dance hula this is still relevant today because lots of people still use this dance and the musical instrument ukulele. Hawaii is approximately 1929km north east of Australia and 3760km north west of the Marquesas islands where the Hawaiian people came from.

As it crashes onto land it destroys everything in its path, these waves are caused by an undersea earthquake on the tectonic plate. As the plates rise and falls, it displaces the water and causes the water to turn into a tsunami. What does climate change have to do with this? Climate change can melt ice, therefore that melting ice would be able to go underwater. These are called underwater avalanches, if these avalanches get too much wait on them they can cause underwater earthquakes. Climate change affects the environment by creating droughts and wildfires. Droughts are caused by hot weather, and from the rain not arriving , but mostly, from the heat. As we all know the sun evaporates the water and gives it to the clouds and then the clouds get heavy and it rains. Well, places with drought don’t have enough water, or no water at all. Everything has been dried out by the sun, this causes plants to die. No plants no insects, no insects no animals, no animals no humans, the whole environment becomes diseases. As the weather gets severe, mosquitoes can come out and play for a while. Mosquitoes carry something called Dungeon Fever, they say mosquitoes can expand their population and make a comeback. As the season turns to summer mosquitoes and other

In order to successfully understand the inexplicable surfer’s lifestyle as a counter-culture to main society, we must first have a greater knowledge of the ingredients that make this culture so different in the views of the social norm. A counter-culture as described by Professor Chad Smith in the second week of class is, “When subcultures specially stand in direct opposition to the dominant culture of the society in which they are located, rejecting it’s most important values and norms and endorsing their opposites.” As surfers began to express themselves more and more freely throughout the 1950’s and 1960’s, the surfing sub-culture that was portrayed by the media, with retrospect to Gidget and Beach Part, began to diminish in the eyes of

civilization, they built large castles on the island and developed a rich culture. The Minoans trade

The Night At The Surf shop On February 2,2017 at 11:42 pm a bloody, brutal murder case happened in the Swimming summer Surf shop at Cory Plum's residence. Cory Plum had a purple coat and purple hair. The witnesses Mrs. Betty White has spoken that he glanced mysterious and cruel. Rosy Scarlet was working that day at the Surf shop. Rosy Scarlet had on a Blood colored red dress, rosy red shoes, and Scarlet red lipstick. A few weeks back Rosy Scarlet said to Cory Plum that "why do you keep taking my 10k gold ring's." She declared very angrily! After that, she said, " if you don’t stop I'm taking my ring and leaving."

The mode of transportation was a huge outrigger canoe that was at the mercy of the ocean. The navigator, tracked time-honored information taken from the stars, from ocean swells, clouds, birds and other signs with only never-ending ocean surrounding the canoe.

The concept behind this theory suggests that the indigenous people had traveled perhaps on boats, of a sort, along the coast line rather than by foot across the land (Hudson Lecture

The author of this book Dr. Nichols explained many cases and arguments related with water. Among the cases, there is an impressive argument which is related by surfing and human. I thought surfing is simply enjoying the water sports. However, Dr. Nichols analyzed the surf in biological aspects.

around the globe blessed with the rare ability to write and ride with equal gusto.