A shallow-water wave propagates at the speed c0 ≈ (gy)1/2.What makes it propagate? That is, what is the balance offorces in such wave motion? In which direction does sucha wave propagate?

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Chapter16: Waves
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Problem 1CQ: Give one example of a transverse wave and one example of a longitudinal wave, being careful to note...
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A shallow-water wave propagates at the speed c0 ≈ (gy)1/2.
What makes it propagate? That is, what is the balance of
forces in such wave motion? In which direction does such
a wave propagate?

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