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History Of Surfing

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While recalling memories about surfing I began to remember certain events that demonstrated the different mindsets of surfers, one of these was a conversation with my dad when I was younger and we were on the southern California coast. We were talking about how people were starting to surf behind boats, I thought it would be something cool to try since you would be able to ride a wave that goes on forever. My dad on the other hand resented the idea of surfing behind a boat, as he put it “there is a certain connection that you feel when you have paddled all the way out and you are waiting for a wave to come, and then you feel the wave starting to form.” He is the type of surfer where the connection with the ocean is the most important part of…show more content…
The different types of boards preform better in different wave conditions, a longboard is better with waves that are small and rolling since the board has a large surface area and a low rocker you can catch waves earlier. A fish (type of board) can catch most waves that a longboard can, although the longboard can catch some smaller waves a fish will surpass a longboard when it comes to turning since they have a twin fin setup. If the waves are starting to get big but your still able to paddle into the waves a gun would be the board of choice. If the waves are sitting around 12foot then you could use a semi gun in order to catch them since you don’t need a full size gun to carry a lot of speed when paddling into the wave. If waves are getting over 20 feet you will most likely need to switch to a full-size gun to get the most out of your board since the waterline of the full-size makes it easy to get the speed needed to catch a big wave. When waves begin to get huge and they’re pitching you aren’t able to safely paddle into these waves anymore so a tow board is used to catch these types of waves. The limits of what can be paddled into vary but for the most part pretty much anything over 25 feet is deemed impossible to paddle into or very dangerous to do so. A tow board is pulled behind a jet ski and it puts you on the wave, since if you were paddling…show more content…
Some this terminology that’s used in surfing consist of A-Frame, Peak, Shoulder, Close Out. An A-Frame occurs when there is a good sandbar a little way off shore and it causes the waves to look like the letter A. The peak of a wave is the highest part of a wave when it is about to break. The shoulder of a wave is off to the side of the wave; this term is typically used to insult another surfer by calling them a girl for taking off on the shoulder instead of the peak. A close out occurs when the whole wave breaks at once, most of the time a close out is a bad thing but if it’s a hallow close out then you can get into the barrel but you wont be able to make it out of
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