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Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536

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BuyFindarrow_forward

Fundamentals of Physical Geography

2nd Edition
James Petersen
ISBN: 9781133606536
Textbook Problem

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FIGURE 17.12 Incomplete wave refraction leads to sediment transport along the coast by beach drifting and longshore drifting.

Why is the backwash perpendicular to the trend of the shoreline when the swash is at an angle to it?

To determine

The reason why backwash is perpendicular to the trend of the shoreline when the swash is at an angle to it.

Explanation

When the crest a wave approaches the shoreline that is straight and gently sloping at a higher angle to the coast obliquely, it interacts with the bottom and starts to reduce its speed when it is closer to the shore. When more amount of water enters shallow water, the decrease in velocity spreads progressively along the crest.

With inadequate time for the complete refraction before breaking initiates, the crest lies at an angle to the beach, not parallel to it, when it breaks...

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